Sun, Oct 24, 2010

Sunday, October 24, 2010

The night in the cabin was an interesting one and Charles and I slept pretty good but I don’t think Dodger and Paris cared for the accommodations. Most of the time we get two queen beds and the motel will often give us an old blanket to put on the other bed knowing that most folks who travel with their pets allow their pets on the bed.  So in this small cabin with only one bed we had several rounds of “Get down” and “Nite, Nite” which is Paris’ cue to get in her own bed at home.  They obeyed reluctantly but after about ten minutes of darkness and quiet, Dodger would ease back up on the bed and then Paris would come around to my side and stick her nose in my face as if to say, “Momma, Dodger got on the bed… make him get down!” I’m not sure who gave up first us or them but we all finally were asleep. I do know that when I woke up early the next morning, Dodger was laying on my feet and Paris was draped across my stomach.

We did our morning rituals and then headed over to the Jacob’s Lodge Restaurant to eat breakfast.  About halfway through breakfast I realized I wasn’t feeling too well and headed back to the cabin.  After a dose of medicine and laying down for a while I felt like we could proceed. 

From Jacob’s Lake and the beautiful forests we soon dropped off the high plateau and began the drive along the Vermilion Cliffs toward Lee’s Ferry.  All along Highway 89 the high cliffs are visible on your left.  We made one short stop to walk out a little closer to the formations and enjoy the warmer temperatures and again the peaceful silence. 

As we approached the Colorado river we made a lengthy stop at the Historic Navajo Bridge and Visitor Center.  The visitor center and accompanying buildings are worth the stop and the weather was so nice we took the time to see it all.  There are now two bridges there but the newer bridge was built to withstand the weight of truck and heavier traffic and was built in the same style as the original bridge so it would serve as a compliment. The Historic Navajo Bridge was opened in January, 1929 and was big news for the southwest.  It was the only bridge across the Colorado River for over 600 miles and would establish a vital link between Arizona and Utah. When the bridge was built it was the highest steel arch bridge in the world and cost $390,000 to build.  The old bridge is open to foot traffic only and gives you a bird’s eye view of the Colorado River far below the straight red cliffs on each side.   A side benefit was that we spotted two California Condors perched on one of the girders below.  Condors were reintroduced in this area in December, 1996 and have done well here.

We were headed toward Page, AZ and eventually Cortez, CO but after we left the Lee’s Ferry area we found an interesting looking dirt road that would actually bypass Page and was about 25 miles or so shorter.  Although there had been a lot of rain in the area the road looked good and we entered it aware that if we got into any questionable places we would return to the paved road.  This road would cross thru the Navajo Indian Reservation and had been traveled since the rain so we felt it would be ok.  The road itself was about 45 miles long and we so only two or three Navajo houses.  It was a pretty drive and about halfway through we came across the abandoned Coppermine Trading Post.  It had served the workers of a now closed copper mine.  There were several old empty buildings that cast an eerie atmosphere with wisps of remaining curtains blowing in the breeze. 

We made it through with no problems and continued on our way.  We drove past Monument Valley just stopped on the highway to take a few shots since the light was terrible and we didn’t really have time to go inside.  At Mexican Hat, UT we took a short side trip to see the rock formation the town was named after. Then it was on to Bluff, UT to make a late lunch/early supper stop at the Twin Rocks Café.  They make a great Navajo Taco (kind of like a taco salad on Navajo Fry Bread) and we never miss a change to stop and have one here.

We arrived in Cortez a little before dark and have a great room close to the motel laundry so Charles is going to do the laundry while I catch up on my journal and backup our photos. 

Despite beginning the day with a “bug” it turned out to be another good day and we are well tonight!  We hope that you are too.

Peace, Hope & Love,

Donna, Charles, Paris & Dodger



Sat, Oct 23, 2010

Saturday, October 23, 2010

We chose to make it another lazy morning for several reasons.  Not that you need a reason to be lazy on vacation but it doesn’t hurt either.  The weather was cloudy and since the elevation in Bryce Canyon starts at about 8,000 at Sunrise Point and ends at 9,115 feet at Rainbow Point, cloudy often means the hoodoos can disappear in the clouds.  So we just took our time and enjoyed relaxing in the room.  The lady next door to us knocked on the door and said she just had to meet our two dogs because her husband had seen them and was bragging to her on how beautiful they were and how well behaved.  Of course, as the proud parents, we were thrilled to show them off to her. 

After packing up the Jeep we walked over to the Lodge to get breakfast but found a long line waiting so went into the general store and got a couple of donuts and coffee and decided to drive on into the park. 

Bryce Canyon is always busy but most of the other tourists must have decided to be slow getting out as well because we saw as few people at the overlooks as we ever have and at a couple of them we were the only ones there which is something we have never seen.  There is no doubt that the vast views are no more dramatic when seen alone but the atmosphere is a lot more peaceful. 

We have had some unbelievable weather during this road trip.  It has not been perfect but it has come darn close most of the time.  As a photographer the light is everything and although the light hasn’t been perfect either, I have been blessed to have some unbelievable light when it did not seem possible.  I cloud just when I needed it, or maybe a minute or two of sun that would turn a “pic” into a memory maker for us.  I always thank God for these moments and I always thank the elk or the buffalo or any wild animal that stops for a moment and gives me that perfect pose.  When that “not so smart” lady walked out toward that bull elk in Yellowstone and he lifted his head to peer at her intently, I gave her a great big thank you as we drove off when a fine photo. 

The light this morning did not look promising at all.  As we drove into the park we opted to bypass the first two “Points” as they are called and chose Inspiration Point because of its orientation to the hoodoos and the available light.  As we made the hike out to the point, the sun began to peek thru the clouds and for the next several hours we had some beautiful morning light to bathe the panoramas before us. As we were leaving Rainbow Point huge clouds of fog rolled in behind us and things began to disappear as we made our last stops heading out of the park. 

We were driving in the general direction of the Grand Canyon but had no plans to hurry to get there.  It was almost 2:00 pm when we got to the turn-off point to Zion National Park but because of the low clouds and pretty consistent drizzle we decided to stop at the Thunderbird Restaurant for a late lunch and decide on our route after a good meal. 

The Thunderbird Restaurant is located at Mt Carmel Junction, UT and is a family owned restaurant that opened in the 1940s when a tunnel connecting Mt Carmel to Zion National Park was completed.  The road was still gravel and Jack & Fern Morrison opened a gas station and Fern was a great cook so she made pies to serve the truck drivers passing through. We had been seeing the signs advertising the restaurant and their famous “ho-made” pies.  One of the reasons I’m including so much detail on this eatery is because they were so nice from the minute you entered the front door.  I know any time a group of us get together at home the talk often turns to how bad the service was and how we wish it were different.  And it always makes your food better when the service is good.  Anyway, after we were seated an older woman of small stature (she told us later she was 4’8 ¾“ and 74 years old) came by and gave us two fresh rolls right out of the oven.  She came by periodically to chat and also offered us more free rolls.  Our waitress was sweet, attentive and when we asked if we could split a chili burger she said no problem and when she brought it out it was on separate plates and there were ample portions.  We had said we were be glad to pay extra to split it but when we got our ticket there was no extra charge.  As we were getting up to leave the elderly lady came over and asked Charles (who had coffee with his meal) if he would like a refill of his coffee in a go cup, no charge of course.  As we left, I think everybody in the place spoke to us.  It is a large restaurant that also serves the Best Western and can accommodate large tour groups but the service was very personal and the food was delicious.  We were too full to get a slice of that ho-made pie but plan to start with dessert on our next trip through Mt Carmel Junction!

The weather had not changed and so we decided to by-pass Zion National Park on this trip.  We continued thru Kanab, Utah crossed into Arizona and at Fredonia, Arizona decided to make a side trip to the Pipe Spring National Monument. 

Pipe Spring National Monument is a small spot on the map so we figured it probably is just what is says… a spring and it was a spring but a very important one for this area.  The spring is located on an area known as the Arizona Strip, a vast isolated dry landscape between the Grand Canyon and the Vermilion Cliffs.  It is an arid place and this spring has served all who passed for thousands of years.  In the 1870s John Wesley Powell’s parties camped twice at Pipe Spring.  It has an interesting history that I won’t recount totally here but the first official owner of the spring, James Whitmore, brought sheep and cattle there in 1863. Navajo Indians raided in 1866 and during an attempt to recover the stolen livestock he and his herdsmen were killed. At that point, Brigham Young bought the ranch from Whitmore’s widow and established a tithing ranch which would deliver butter, cheese and cattle to St George, Utah every two weeks to help feed hundreds of laborers who were building the Mormon temple there.  Again, we got a special blessing via the weather.  When we arrived we listened to a short presentation by the Park Ranger and as we exited the back door of the visitor center to walk out to the spring and surrounding buildings it began to sprinkle.  We decided to walk on out to at least view the spring and in about five minutes it was Bryce Canyon all over again… the sun popped out and stayed out until we had time to walk around the entire complex.  The freezing temperatures at Bryce, however, had given way to the sixties of the high desert… another blessing indeed.

Back on the road, we checked the map and decided to forego the South Rim of the Grand Canyon which we have visited many times to the less developed North Rim.  At Jacob’s Lake we got the last room available, a small rustic cabin.  Then we headed out to drive the forty plus mile one-way drive to the North Rim.  It was, as I have said about many of our drives, a beautiful drive.  At the rim we took the half mile hike out to Bright Angel Point.  I’m not sure I can adequately convey how intense this paved but narrow trail can be as it follows the ridge.  The elevation is a little over 8,100 feet and the trail is too narrow to walk side by side. The views literally take your breath away… not to mention that there isn’t much air up here for two folks from Mississippi. I actually enjoyed the trail a lot more after I was off of it.  We then took about a ten mile drive out to Point Imperial which I enjoyed much more since it didn’t require any daredevil feats to reach.  The North Rim is a totally different experience with the lack of crowds does not compare to the South Rim experience unless you like feeling like you need to crawl back to your car.

We made it back to the Lodge just about dark and had a good hot cup of corn chowder before retiring to our small cabin.  There were no services of any type so we just piled up in the bed and read for a while after I made a quick backup of the day’s photos.

We are well tonight and hope that you all are too!

Peace, Hope & Love,

Donna, Charles, Paris & Dodger



Fri, Oct 22, 2010

Friday, October 22, 2010

From our motel room we had a beautiful view of Lake Powell. We were treated to just a little sunshine this morning after the sunrise before the drizzling rain began.  We enjoyed hot coffee, milk and cheese toast for breakfast as we watched folks preparing their boats for a day on Lake Powell.  We talked to the people in the room next to us as they enjoyed their breakfast on their porch as well.  They were from Spokane, Washington and she had made two mission trips to Biloxi to help after Katrina. 

The forecast still predicting light rain for the day we knew we could not take the Burr Trail dirt road.  But the paved road drive, although many more miles is still scenic from beginning to end… so much so that our eyes are usually worn out from seeing so much scenery by the end of this drive.

We made our usual puppy play stop at Trachyte Creek a neat rocky creek running thru the red sandstone.  Because it was raining lightly we only hiked a short way down the creek and back.  Flash floods can come on suddenly in any of the canyon areas and we didn’t really feel like trying to outrun a wall of water.

The rain continued so we pretty much just drove to the Capitol Reef National Park Area before making any more stops.  An interesting point was the cabin of the Elijah Cutler Behunin family.  This family was one of the first settlers in the area and the small single room cabin (it appeared to be about 12x16 at most) was built in 1882 on the Fremont River.  Small cabin equals small family… right?  No, it seems they had eight children (picture of the family is in my photos).  The cabin had a fireplace where the cooking was probably done but they probably ate outside according to the info at the cabin.  Mr & Mrs Behunin and the two smallest children slept in the cabin, the older boys slept in a dugout on the cliff behind the cabin and the girls made a bed in an old wagon box.  All I can say is these were tough tough people!

The next stop at the old school in Fruita (just down the road from the Behunin Cabin) was the “stop of the day”.  The one room schoolhouse served the community from 1896 until 1941.  Money, land, materials and labor were donated by the Mormon settlers as well as money for the teachers’ pay.  It also served as the community meeting place, Sunday school and Saturday night social center.  An additional treat at this stop was two beautiful antique vehicles parked there when we drove up.  One was a 1950 Ford Crestliner and the other a 1936 Ford pickup.  The two guys driving them had come from Sherman, Texas and were returning from a car show in St George, Utah.  Both were unbelievable but the Crestliner had won Best of Show.  So we had a great time visiting with them and looking at their cars.  Before long we got to the subject of where we were from and the guy driving the truck is the first cousin once removed of Melvin Boles (founding pastor of the Evangel Temple).  Not only was he familiar with Meridian but actually knew where Causeyville was as well… small world!

After that stop it was a nice stop at the Capitol Reef Visitor Center to look at the Indian artifacts displayed there and read about the history of the area.  Because of the extreme terrain, this area was one of the last to be explored and settled. This is not hard to imagine once you have toured the area.

After one of the best hamburgers we have ever eaten at Slackers in Torrey, UT we made the trip up, into, down and out of the Dixie National Forest.  We were surprised to still find colorful Aspens. The first town out of the Dixie is Boulder, UT and is where we would have come out if we had been able to take the Burr Trail.  Since several miles of the Burr Trail is paved outside of Boulder we made the trip down to our favorite puppy stop on the Burr Trail.  It is in an area of huge light colored sandstone formations that has a clear creek running through it at certain times of the year.  We made several stops there with our first road trip companion Truman.  We knew that after all the rain it should be flowing very well.  It was and we stayed there about an hour letting Dodger and Paris have a big time jumping the creek and playing on the slick rock (it’s not really slick to walk on just looks that way).  While walking out to the creek we were talking about Truman and Dodger looked up at us as if to say “Oh, is Truman going to be here?”  They had several great playtimes at this spot so it’s also nice to see Paris & Dodger carrying on the Truman Downey tradition.

Soon we were in the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument area.  This is such a rugged area that is was the last place in the United States to be mapped! The monument spans almost two million acres but the highpoint of the area we went thru on our way to Bryce Canyon was literally the high point where the road runs a ridge between two huge canyons that seem to go on forever.  Far below us in the canyons you could see a river of cottonwoods snaking thru the landscape.  At one point the ridge is the width of the road with about two thousand foot drops on both sides with no guard rail.  It’s a real nail biter but the view is unbelievable.

From there it was a short drive to Ruby’s Inn at Bryce Canyon and our resting spot for the night.  Because we had eaten a late lunch we opted for a sandwich in our room. 

We had another really nice day on the road and are well tonight.  We hope you all are too!

Peace, Hope & Love,

Donna, Charles, Paris & Dodger



Thurs, Oct 21, 2010

Thursday, October 21, 2010

The weather appeared quite pleasant when we woke up.  The clouds were wispy and there were patches of blue sky appearing. However, when we watched the weather channel there was a chance of rain and there had been copious amounts of rain in some areas.  We decided against the Shafer Trail since it was at the end of the trail that the possibly impassible slick rock climb was located. Oh well… on another trip. 

It would be all paved roads today so we set the destination to Lake Powell or more specifically Defiance House Lodge at Bullfrog.  This would mean a picturesque drive followed by a thirty minute ferry ride across Lake Powell.  We certainly didn’t feel slighted to make this route change. 

After a pretty good full breakfast at the motel we left under partly cloudy skies and mild temperatures in the upper forties.  We like to make a puppy stop pretty soon after we leave in the mornings so Paris & Dodger have a change to run around and stretch their legs.  This was a striking spot overlooking a red rock canyon filled with bright yellow cottonwoods.  Paris went immediately on the hunt climbing to the top of a large sandstone rock where she could scan the rocks below her.  Dodger was content to stand by me glancing up at her to see if she spotted anything.  A slight breeze must have carried some “critter” smell to their waiting senses because almost in unison they both ran down the rocks a short distance to smell the same spot on the rocks. 

Back on the road it was just a short while before we made a stop to admire Wilson Arch.  It’s a huge arch in a massive sandstone ridge and sits right beside the highway so no walking was even required.

The ferry runs from Halls Crossing to Bullfrog on the even hour and we would need to be there by 1:30 to be able to make the 2:00 crossing.  This meant we had about an hour and a half at most for stops or side trips.  We also needed to make a short grocery stop because the Defiance House Lodge closes their lobby and restaurant for the winter months and there would be no other services available except a convenience store and gas station. 

We did make a short drive up a well drained dirt road just north of Monticello, UT so we could do a panorama photo of the Abajo Mountains.  The sky had cleared around the Abajos with the exception of a strip of beautifully white clouds hugging the top of the mountains.

Then we had a little excitement.  As we rounded a curve on Hwy 191 south of Monticello Recapture Resevoir came into view and we were remarking about how beautiful it was when I noticed something moving in the water about 100 yards from the shore.  My first thought was some geese were probably taking off but it was six deer swimming.  The reservoir is part of a large canyon and there were barriers along the highway so we could not pull off to get a photo but had to drive to the other side of the reservoir.  It would be a long swim and they swam in a small circle several times before it looked like they would return to the shore where they entered the water.  Unfortunately two guys in a pickup truck saw them and drove to that spot on the shore so they reverse course again and were headed in our general direction.  We had already decided to leave just in case they spotted us and began to swim circles again.  They began to swim toward the rock dam and so the guys jumped back in their truck and drove toward them on the dam.  They were swimming along the dam and soon saw the truck and swam back out.  Luckily the guys could not pull off on the dam/highway either and traffic forced them to go on.  The deer climbed out onto the rocks slipping and climbing then returned back to the water and seeing no good alternatives returned to the rocks again.  After several wild attempts the largest doe made her way up to the highway barriers and the others followed.  She was large enough to be seen over the barriers and the traffic stopped as she cleared the barrier and they made their way across the highway, jumped the last barrier and were on solid ground again.  I’m not sure why they entered the reservoir at the widest point to try a crossing but we were glad to see it work out after some anxious moments.

Back on the road again we made that necessary grocery fuel stop in Blanding, UT and continued on our way. The dramatic “slot” cut into the red rock is always a thrill.  You’re on a high plain, enter the slot and just out the other side is a breathtaking view of the Comb Wash far below you. 

We put some miles behind us before stopping for a few quick photos of Castle Rock Ruins. It’s always amazing that they have managed to partially survive at least for hundreds of years.

As we got close to Lake Powell we felt comfortable making a longer stop and chose an interesting area of rock formations to spend some time and make some photographs while enjoying a short hike.  Fortunately for me, the clouds had returned but made the light perfect for shooting this particular type of sandstone rocks with ridges and patterns in every direction. 

All along the drive it was obvious we had made the right decision in staying away from the dirt roads.  There had been massive rains the night before but the paved road drive was very nice and it’s still easy to walk the slick rock areas.

We arrived at the ferry landing with about 30 minutes to spare.  In the car in front of us we met a couple on “holiday” from England.  It was their first trip to the area and we had plenty of time to talk about their travels and our travels.  They had a few questions about how to work some controls on their rented car and we were able to take care of that as well.  We enjoyed visiting with them on the ferry ride across the lake and remarkably they had no trouble understanding our southern accent. 

At Bullfrog they followed us to the “fueling” station and then they continued their journey and we checked into our room.  Since we would not be able to take the dirt road known as the Burr Trail we decided to drive up the road to the top of the red rock cliffs just north of the motel.  At the top we took another nice hike before heading back to the motel.  Then it was time for a pot of coffee and to just sit on our porch and enjoy the view of Lake Powell and marina.  For the first time on our trip we had a spectacular sunset.  It was a perfect ending to a very nice day.

We are well tonight and hope you all are too! 

Peace, Hope & Love,

Donna, Charles, Paris & Dodger



Wed, Oct 20, 2010

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Today would be totally a play day for us.  After checking the weather to be sure there was no rain in the forecast we firmed up our route into Arches National Park.  The road we planned to take would enter the park from the northern most point via a dirt road thru a long valley known as the Salt Flats.  We have traveled this road before and knew it can be impassable with just a little rain.  But it was another beautifully clear day so our course was set.

The motel had a typical continental breakfast so we fueled up and then headed out stopping to top off the gas tank. There would be no services until we exited Arches at Moab, UT. 

We had just pulled onto the Salt Flat Road and pulled over to review the map to confirm the turns necessary to remain on the right road (there are untold dirt roads that wander the areas around Arches and Canyonlands and few have any markings.  Of course the windows were down and as soon as the Jeep stopped Paris jumped over to Dodgers side of the car. Yes, they normally have sides… they are just like children and if Paris gets on Dodgers side he pouts and whines and will then reluctantly take up her window but at the first opportunity he grabs his side.  This will only happen when she has decided to give it up.  Anyway, just outside was a prairie dog sitting at his front door staring back at us.  It was a real thrill for Dodger & Paris who spend their days looking for just this very thing.

There had been heavy rains in the area last Sunday and although the road was dry there were tracks that showed just how muddy and sloppy it had been.  We passed a couple out rock hounding and found a spot just down the road to make our first stop.  The sides of the valley of flanked by huge sandstone cliffs and just a few minutes scanning the ground shows the area is ripe with stones that would have been used by the native Indians to produce their needed tools.  The spot we chose was one of these areas.  Everywhere on the ground  next to this protected area of rocks were the chips that remain after the arrowheads and other tools were completed. We spent a good while exploring the area and the dogs, in particular Paris had fun climbing around on the rocks.

As we made our way back to the Jeep the couple we had passed earlier drove up and asked us if we knew if the road was open into the park.  We were still outside the park boundaries and there is a gate at the entry point that they close and lock if the road conditions warrant.  They had been in the area for a week and love wandering as much as we do.  They proceeded and we followed soon after getting a snack and watering the dogs. 

The road was open and soon we were “officially” inside the park.  The temperatures had started out in the low forties and were climbing steadily so it was time to ditch the coat for the vest.  It would serve me for the rest of the day. 

The Salt Flat road ends with a climb out of the flat valley and where the largest sandstone rocks begin.  The better part of the day was spent riding from one parking area to another followed by hikes to explore the gorgeous red rocks and arches. 

By mid afternoon we made the descent out of Arches and into Moab, UT which serves as the starting point for visitors to explore both Arches and Canyonlands.  It’s an outdoor person’s mecca and a huge mountain biking area.  It has grown tremendously since our first visit to the area some 30 years ago.  We found a room, did a little grocery shopping, and had an early supper before heading back out to Canyonlands.  We had run out of time to make the Shafer trail drive… I might be glad about this for it is an unbelievable drive off the top of the red rocks.  Originally an Indian trail, later a “one cow wide” cattle path to take cattle to the grassy top, later widened for prospectors seeking Uranium and now serves the tourist trade. The dramatic road is literally carved into the slick red rock. After a stop at the visitor center we made the drive out to the Mesa Arch trailhead.  We barely made it out to the Arch with enough light to get a photo but it was worth it to see the view as a full moon rose behind the arch.  Then we made a short drive to find a good spot overlooking the opposite side of the Island in the Sky area to watch the sunset. This part of the world has to be one of the quietest.  Stop talking for a moment and there is literally not a sound to be heard… very peaceful.

We are now back in our room and resting after a day full of walking and climbing. Tomorrow the weather will change and there will be a good chance of rain so dirt road travel will not be an option. We have decided not to take the Shafer Trail as it is impassable with just the slightest moisture. So we'll head down the paved road to toward Lake Powell.

We are well and hope you all are too!

Peace, Hope & Love,

Donna, Charles, Paris & Dodger