Tue, May 31, 2011

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

The high Wednesday in Meridian will be 98 degrees with high humidity; the high here in Gunnison today was 72 degrees with low humidity. I think we will wait until Fall to return home. – Donna Downey

Charles and I talk about the wonderful weather out here often.  After talking to a friend from home today we cringed at the thought of returning to near 100 degree temperatures when today the high here was about 72.  Let’s don’t even talk about the humidity.  If you’ve looked at any of the photos of us you saw we have not even had a short sleeve shirt on yet.  And sweating is prohibited out here I believe.  We check the weather in our favorite Oregon coast towns periodically and laugh about the fact that the high is more often than not 55 degrees 365 days a year.  I did check the high there today and it was… you guessed it… 55 degrees.  So it will not be easy to make the weather transition to Mississippi for us or the dogs!

Today was an easy day for us.  We planned to make a short drive from Creede almost entirely on dirt roads to Gunnison, CO.  We would travel thru some of the most remote areas of Colorado and would spend almost the entire day above 9000 feet.  We would travel thru at least two mountain passes in excess of 10,000 feet and one that was over 11,000 feet. There would be some of the most beautiful creeks and streams to be found anywhere and a nice long stop at the most photographed falls in Colorado, North Clear Creek Falls.  It also happens to be one of the prettiest. 

And the plan worked without a hitch.  The weather was perfect, all the roads and passes were open and it seemed most other tourists had returned home after Memorial Day.   At North Clear Creek Falls, where we spent a good deal of time, we only saw three people which is a record.  There was a tremendous amount of water going over the falls and the backdrop of a gorgeous blue sky made the scene something right out of a dream. 

From there we traveled about six miles up another dirt road to Continental Reservoir.  Definitely a higher elevation lake it sits at a little over 10,200 feet. There were two trucks with trailers at the boat launch but the lake is large and we never caught a glimpse of anyone.

North Clear Creek flows thru the Continental Reservoir so as we headed out we saw an ideal spot on the creek for our picnic lunch.  It was another picture perfect setting to enjoy a nice lunch and relax.  The water level was too swift and deep for the pups to play in but they enjoyed hunting for varmints under every rock. 

After our picnic we headed to the Slumgullion road going thru Spring Creek Pass at 10,901 feet before turning off on the Slumgullion dirt road.  Just a few miles down the road we broke the elevation record of our entire trip in Slumgullion Pass at 11,361 feet.  Many of the valleys in this area have an abundance of beaver dams and of course beavers.  The complexity of their dam systems is amazing and we marveled thru the day how such a small mammal can control such large amounts of water.  These narrow valleys go on for miles and can often contain numerous dams and the resulting waterfalls.  We stopped at one dam near the road that we could get over to with just a little wading.  The dam system was intricate and controlling perfectly a portion of Brush Creek creating a peaceful pond from a fast flowing creek.  This little side trip was worth it but will require some cleaning on our hiking boots tonight.

As we found on many of our previous days we spent another day near water of varying sizes and shapes.  The pups had ample opportunities for water play and also for baths as needed.  Paris found another varmint to pursue when we stumbled upon a couple of Marmots.  When she finally located the hole where they disappeared they let her know verbally they were not thrilled with her behavior.   She seemed confused with all the chatter pulling back from the hole and looking back at us for support then peering down into the hole again.  We then called her back to save her the embarrassment of being beaten up by a Marmot.

We saw several female Rocky Mountain Sheep high up in a meadow but their larger male counterparts were nowhere to be seen.  We also caught a fleeting glimpse of a couple of female elk but again no males around. 

We got into Gunnison about 4:00 and have a wonderful room.  Paris and Dodger crashed as soon as we got in the room because with all of the activity today they had not had time for their usual naps. Because of the convenience of services here we made the decision to do a major cleanup.  After several weeks of traveling on numerous dirt roads the Jeep was filthy and with only minor wiping down inside it was time for some major cleaning.  We took almost everything out and Charles took it to a car wash and then wiped down the entire interior when he got back to the motel.  I cleaned all of the photography equipment, computer and associated containers. We did laundry and then Charles finished removing the dust from the rest of our “stuff” while I sat down to do the journal and photos. We are much cleaner now and ready to do it all over again!

We are well tonight and hope that y’all are too.

Peace, Hope & Love,

Donna, Charles, Paris & Dodger

PS  Even after unloading the Jeep, washing it, completely wiping down the interior and loading everything (except what we needed in the room) back into the Jeep Charles never broke a sweat… not even a little perspiration.  If he had done this at home he would have needed a shower and a clean set of dry clothes!  As a large sign over main street in Grants, Oregon says:  “It’s The Climate!”



Mon, May 30, 2011 Memorial Day

Monday, May 30, 2011 Memorial Day

Terrorists kill themselves in order to kill innocent people; our brave soldiers serve and sometimes die so that innocent lives may be saved. God Bless them! - Donna Downey

As we get ready to head out today we want to say Happy Memorial Day to everyone.  A special thanks to all who serve in the military and support those who do as well.  We owe so much to those heroes who serve so we can enjoy the freedoms we are blessed to have. 

We have posted one photo this morning that I took a couple of days ago in the small Utah town of Escalante.  There were several ladies going thru the cemetery putting out these flags in celebration of Memorial Day.  In the late afternoon light it was such a beautiful sight. 

We slept late today… very happy sleep.  The wireless service in the motel was down last night but was working this morning so we took a little extra time to upload my journal and photos and to take care of some emails.  We opted for coffee and toast before finally heading south toward Ouray, CO. There is a forecast for snow in the upper elevations and since we will be going thru several passes in excess of 10,000 feet we figured we would again see some snow. 

Ouray is just ten miles south of Ridgeway and there begins one of the more famous highways in the US.  The “Million Dollar Highway” which was featured in VISA commercials many years ago will definitely curl your toes if you have even the slightest misgivings about hanging out on the edge of a mountain.  The climb to the summit of Red Mountain Pass through the Uncompahgre Gorge is characterized by steep cliffs, narrow lanes, and very few guard rails.  When you think about it if an avalanche takes out a section of the road what difference is a guard rail going to make if you are unlucky enough to be there at the wrong time.  It seems like it is just one sharp curve after another on a road literally carved out of the rock.  However, if you can bear to look out the window there are also some incredible views.

Due to the time of year and also the large amount of snowfall received this past winter (and continuing even now) waterfalls, creeks and rivers were running full and water seemed to be leaking out of every crevice we passed.  It was almost like being in a rain forest although a cold one.

Once you reach the summit of Red Mountain is seems like a piece of cake the rest of the way to Silverton.  Just out of Ouray we got in a very light snow and they had gotten about an inch of fresh powder in the passes.  We made a quick stop to let the pups have, possibly their last playtime in the snow.  They chased and ate snowballs and then chased each other until they wore out and we resumed our drive.

Once in Durango it was time to replenish our picnic supplies and run our filthy Jeep thru a car wash again.  Several days of dirt roads, dust storms, snow, rain and melting snow had left our vehicle looking very road weary.  So it was time for a pick me up.

Due to our late breakfast we opted for a snack and another late lunch/early dinner in Pagosa Springs at our favorite Mexican restaurant.  We enjoyed a leisurely meal as we enjoyed a view of the San Juan river and the Pagosa Hot Springs.

It was still only about 5:00 pm and the weather was beautiful so we decided to drive over Wolf Creek Pass and then on to Creede, CO.  We are staying in a small family owned motel where we have stayed before and feel at home so to speak.

We just watched an interesting program on the Battle of Gettysburg on the History Channel and a touching show on ABC honoring some of our military heroes.  We are reminded once again how grateful we are on this Memorial Day to those who serve and protect us.

We are well tonight and hope that y’all are too.

Happy Memorial Day!

Peace, Hope & Love,

Donna, Charles, Paris & Dodger

Sun, May 29, 2011

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Sometimes the day begins great and ends great but the middle is a real bummer. – Donna Downey

We woke up this morning anxious to hit the trail and the motel was busy so we decided to get a cup of coffee and a muffin and head out.  It was a beautiful morning, temps in the sixties and plenty of sunshine.  The harsh wind of yesterday seemed to have calmed down considerably.

We had planned our route to take us to Ridgeway, Colorado and had called our usual motel and made a reservation.  However, the route we had planned took a little detour when we got to the Burr Trail turn and we couldn’t stand to pass it by.  The route we had planned was all paved roads… nuff said.  So we turned onto the Burr Trail grinning from ear to ear as the dust began to roll behind the Jeep.

The Burr Trail runs north but then turns west and heads to Boulder, UT.  At the turn west we took the Notom Road which continues to run due north about 35 miles until it intersects Hwy 24 in the Capital Reef National Park.  That gave us another 35 miles of dirt!  It has been many years since we have taken this section of road.  At that time we were traveling with Truman.  He was a small stray pup when he showed up on our doorstep.  He was a wonderful companion and spent his 14 years traveling the US with us.  As we drove up the Notom road I felt a tinge of sadness thinking about him but had to smile at all the memories we made together. We were blessed he chose us.

The Notom road was more beautiful than both of us remembered. It parallels the giant upheaval that gives the park its name and also several smaller ridges.  With the pleasant early morning weather and the views we had a good morning with lots of stops to enjoy both.

Once on the paved road we headed east or at least in that general direction as no road out here goes directly anywhere.  The wind was beginning to pick up so we knew we were probably in store for a pretty breezy afternoon.  Still we found a great place to stop on Hwy 95 above Hite’s Crossing (bridge over the Colorado River on the upper end of Lake Powell).  It had towering red rock canyon walls and a nice creek flowing over sandstone.  There was little wind next to the creek and it was a perfect place for puppy play and a swim… another heavenly spot.

We made a short stop just above the bridge at Hite’s Crossing to enjoy the views and yes a photo or two. 

As we traversed the landscape of canyons, bluffs, and mesas the wind began to build and the sky began to fill with sand.  Soon we were in a full blown dust storm.  Visibility was fine for driving but we could no longer see the sky, the canyons, bluffs or mesas.  I don’t know how strong the wind was but it was rocking our Jeep Wrangler pretty good.  Each vehicle we met  would be cocked over in response to the wind and as the afternoon wore on there were fewer and fewer vehicles on the road.  These are not heavily traveled roads anyway.  At one spot we saw two motorcycles parked on the side of the road with no riders in sight.  We presumed they had found a respite from the winds in the rocks nearby.  You could feel the wind rock the Jeep and hear the sand pelting the body. 

We stopped in Blanding, UT for a late lunch/early supper and discussed staying in Blanding but decided we would just ease on up the road toward our reservation in Ridgeway and hopefully would, at some point, get out of the storm. 

Just outside of Norwood, Colorado the outline of our scenery began to emerge thru the dust and the sun began to appear.  Hoorah! We were glad to be leaving that travel companion behind.  The rest of the drive was still rather breezy but the dust was not nearly as thick and the sun and blue skies returned to some degree.

With the improvement in the weather we turned on the Last Dollar Ranch dirt road just outside of Ridgeway and enjoyed a short drive onto the mountainside.  This is an area where many of the early Marlboro cigarette commercials were filmed and is truly breathtaking.  The original True Grit with John Wayne was also filmed here and in the town of Ridgeway.  We spotted an elk and stopped to watch her for a minute. She seemed a little anxious but not willing to move on when we noticed she had a very small calf nearby.  It appeared to be at most a couple of days old so we did not tarry to take a photo for fear of disturbing them. 

We arrived at our room in Ridgeway just before dark with much improved weather from the afternoon.  The only storm we encountered there was a small black poodle named Oreo that was intent on trying to kill Paris and Dodger as we attempted to get by her in the hall.  Her human finally just picked her up and we eased by quickly.  All is well that ends well!

Speaking of well… we are well tonight and hope that y’all are too.

Peace, Hope & Love,

Donna, Charles, Paris & Dodger



Sat, May 28, 2011

Saturday, May 28, 2011

If you enter a restaurant anywhere near Bryce Canyon National Park you will hear many different nationalities represented.  It’s the one time that the waitress actually appreciates our Southern English. – Donna Downey

I’m pretty sure we were in the minority at the motel where we stayed in Tropic last night.  We were definitely in the minority at the restaurant.  Even one of our waitresses was Russian but everyone seemed thrilled to hear our slow southern twang.  It seemed preferable to many of the hand signals that were going on at the large table of French tourists. 

We had already made a reservation for tonight at the Defiance House Lodge on Lake Powell because we knew rooms would be hard to find on the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend.  So part of our day was “set in stone” so to speak. 

We had picked out a new dirt road to take for the morning and were excited as we drove along on new territory.  Just yesterday we went over a mountain pass in excess of 9400 feet that was completely dry and less than ten miles from this new road so we were pretty confident we would be able to make this route.  And we did make it thru the pass on this road at almost 10,000 feet with just a few patches of snow remaining on the sides of the road but that was on the “sunny” side of the street.  Unfortunately as we began a slow descent that entered the shady side of the mountain we were met with about a 100 foot section of a deep snow drift right across our beautiful dirt road.  We discussed continuing and even drove just into the edge of the snow with the front wheels but it was way too deep so we backed out and turned around. 

We whined a little bit but have always had a policy of not taking any chances where road conditions or weather are concerned.  We drove back out and found a nice place for a picnic alongside Pine Creek and even had about a 4 foot waterfall to enjoy.  After a nice break we picked out a route off the mountain.  Since we were just a few miles from the Hell’s Backbone road we returned to it and made the trek across it again.

We were soon back at Highway 12 and took the short drive to Boulder, Utah where we once again left the pavement behind and headed down the Burr Trail.  You might remember we took this same road just a couple of weeks ago on our way out but it always looks totally different to drive a road “backwards” and with another day of very nice weather it was a beautiful drive.

Again today the wind picked up as the afternoon progressed and after a nice break at an old set of cattle pens located in Capital Reef National Park (still on the Burr Trail) we noticed the winds were really beginning to blow.  Just a few more miles and it was windows up.  We were getting sandblasted by the combination of the extreme winds and the desert sands.  The combination was intolerable.  We made a few stops to take a photograph or two but it was like extreme photography, the latest reality show!  I have enough nice shots today… forget this!!

We were glad to get to the motel and to get out of the wind.  We had a good dinner in the restaurant overlooking Lake Powell and then headed to our room.  As I sit here typing, the wind is howling outside but we are comfy and cozy.  There again, I like to photograph landscapes not become a permanent fixture in them.

We are well tonight and hope that y’all are too.

Peace, Hope & Love,

Donna, Charles, Paris & Dodger



Fri, May 27, 2011

Friday, May 27, 2011

For a road trip addict there is no better score than a day spent entirely on dirt roads. – Donna Downey

Since our motel didn’t have a continental breakfast, we filled up our coffee thermos and headed toward Tropic a small town just a few miles down the road from Bryce.  No matter how many times you see the beautiful red rocks around Bryce it is hard to drive by without stopping. As soon as we spotted the Mossy Creek Trail area we knew we couldn’t go on without a short walk and maybe a photo or two. 

After several days in cool weather today was like a gift from above.  The skies were blue, the temperature quite moderate and the breezes were warm… no need for a jacket today!

We stopped in Tropic and had a great breakfast at Clark’s restaurant where we have eaten several times.  We had picked our route for the day so headed on to Escalante where our dirt road escapade would begin.  Since we found ourselves in a very busy area on Memorial Day weekend we decided to go ahead and try to find a room.  We checked several places in Escalante and found out the town was booked completely.  So we pulled out a card we picked up for a motel in Tropic, called and were very lucky to find a room. 

With a “room in hand” we were ready to hit the back roads. Our first dirt road would be Hell’s Backbone.  As many times as we have been to this area we have never taken this well-known road.  Maybe we hesitated because of the name and because the road travels a narrow ridge with sheer drop offs on both sides with a one-lane bridge that spans the crevasse at the top and goes thru the Box Death Wilderness Area. Never did sound too inviting. It ended up being a beautiful drive and not nearly as scary as it has been made to sound.  Before we exited the 44 mile road we had played by Hungry Creek, ridden the ridge, stopped at every opportunity to enjoy the expansive vistas and enjoy a picnic by Lake Creek. 

With the perfect weather all around us and full bellies from our picnic we decided to tackle the 120 mile round trip drive to Hole in the Rock. We made this drive many years ago with Charles’ mom and dad and have always wanted to make it again.  The road takes you to the famous point where the Mormans basically dropped off a cliff to the Colorado river bank below.  It follows the general route they took on their way to establish a settlement in the San Juan Valley. 

From the Park Service info:  “Construction of this passageway was very difficult. The workers were plagued by lack of wood, forage for cattle, bitter cold, and diminishing food supplies. Blasting powder and picks were used to widen and/or fill various sections of the crevice. At the lower part of the Hole, a road was constructed on the side of a sheer cliff wall. Although a three-foot shelf had already existed, an extension to the shelf was formed by driving two-foot stakes into the rock and piling vegetation and rocks on top. This portion of the trail was nicknamed "Uncle Ben's Dugway" in honor of its engineer, Benjamin Perkins. After six weeks of picking, chiseling, drilling, blasting, and digging, the Hole-in-the-Rock road had been completed.” 

The dirt road drive is a beautiful drive and not a bad road at all until about the last five miles which gets pretty rough and bouncy and takes a while compared to the previous 55 miles.  But when you reach the end and standing at the top of the “passageway” it is worth every mile.  It is also almost impossible to imagine driving a wagon thru that hole and basically sliding down to the bottom!  You have to appreciate their ingenuity and their tenacity in following their calling.

Well add that 120 mile drive to the 50 mile drive and we drove at least 170 miles on dirt roads today and we love dirt roads.  There are several reasons we so much enjoy a good dirt road.  There is no traffic on them so you can cruise along as slowly as you like and make frequent stops to soak in the surroundings.  There is no way you can do this on a normal paved road traveling from 55 to 70 miles per hour. 

We made it back to Tropic and are worn out and dusty.  There is not a crevice on any of us or the Jeep that is not full of dust.  But that’s what they make showers and car washes for and the pups can take a bath in the nearest creek tomorrow. 

We are very well tonight and hope that y’all are too.

Peace, Hope & Love,

Donna, Charles, Paris & Dodger