Thur, May 26, 2011

Thursday, May 26, 2011

I have the desire of an explorer who can’t wait to see around the next bend in the road but I am without the required courage or fortitude.  I prefer to do my exploring from a Jeep and sleep in a motel. – Donna Downey

Our motel in Vernal had excellent Wi-Fi so I took about an extra hour this morning to do some work from the road.  Since our motel did not have a continental breakfast we made do with coffee until we could get on the road.  Just a few miles down the road, however, we spotted a café in the small town of Gusher, Utah.  After a hearty breakfast we were ready for a morning of travel.

Our morning route would take us into the Ashley National Forest as we drove thru a long canyon.  The weather was nice with cool temperatures but clear blue skies.  The wind did pick up as the day progressed which required finding some protected areas to make our stops. 

We took the high scenic route thru the Wasatch Plateau which took us back into the snow.  We took this particular route on the way up and it had received a new dusting of snow so it was sparking white with the new powder.  Near the summit we had to stop for just a few minutes and let the pups play in the fresh snow.  They had a good time but we made it a short recess due to the cold winds.

After the trip down we found ourselves in Huntington, Utah and chose to have a Subway sandwich inside for a change instead of a picnic.  The lower elevations had no snow and are very dusty so all the wind was picking up a lot of dust and grit. 

After lunch we continued our journey toward Bryce Canyon.  I lot of the lower elevations were no longer covered in snow and it was amazing how much the whole area had greened up since we were thru just a couple of weeks earlier.  We had a beautiful drive along the Fremont River and then up and around the Fish Lake Basin. 

Probably the most pleasant stop came at an old log cabin just outside the small ranching community of Koosharem, Utah.  The wind had died down and the afternoon light was beautiful.  There were several large Cottonwood trees around the old cabin and a pipe was pouring beautiful clear water from an underground spring.  The grass was deep and green all around the trees and cabin.  It had been converted to use as a barn by cutting out a section of the wall but now sits unused.  It was a very peaceful spot.

From Koosharem we made the drive due south to Bryce Canyon.  Our usual motel, Ruby’s Inn was full so we were lucky to find a nice room nearby with a fireplace!  Charles and I both love a fire so we feel very much at home here. 

We are all well tonight and hope that y’all are too.

Peace, Hope & Love,

Donna, Charles, Paris & Dodger



Wed, May 25, 2011

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Other than my family and friends there is nothing I am more in love with than a horse. – Donna Downey

It seems I was born with a love of horses.  Just this past March the Budweiser Clydesdales were in town and my mother emailed me this wonderful story.  

"Telling the story about your Daddy, you and the Clydesdale horses is one of my favorites....as it was your Daddy's. We had known when you were less than 6 months old, and we showed you pictures in books and magazines when you saw your first picture of a horse, the only pictures you were interested in were pictures of HORSES. When you were able to sit and turn the pages yourself, you turned pages until you found a horse. On our way home from the depot one day (after picking your Daddy up) we saw the "parked" Clydesdale horses and your Daddy insisted on stopping so you could get a better look. When he took you out of the car I told him not to take you too close and scare you. When he came back to the car, you were crying (boo-hooing) and when I accused him of scaring you he said you were crying because he would not sit you on one of the horses! I did not realize then, that those pictures of horses would eventually cost me a LOT of money! But...it was worth it."

When I was nine, my Uncle T, Aunt Grace and cousin Jo gave me a young filly. I still remember vividly sitting on the front porch waiting anxiously for them to arrive with my first horse, Misty.  That was my first day with a horse and I have not been without a horse since.  My father was killed in a car accident when I was twelve and in the days, weeks and months that passed most of the tears I shed were with my face buried in the neck of my dear Misty.  I thank God for blessing me with this love that would bring me so much comfort and joy.  I was working at a western store when I met Charles.  So my relationship with horses has brought me many of the best parts of my life.

So this morning after we left Pinedale we decided to take the Pilot Butte Wild Horse Scenic Loop just north of Rock Springs, Wyoming.  I felt like a kid waking up on Christmas morning.  On the mesa-like summit of White Mountain at elevations in excess of 7,000 feet the dirt loop road traverses about 25 miles across White Mountain.  It is a vast open landscape of sage and rock with not a tree in sight.  Besides the opportunity to see wild horses the scenery is extraordinary. In every direction are mountain ranges, the Wyoming Range to the west, the Wind River Range to the northeast and the Uinta Range to the south.  Today we were in better temperatures hovering close to sixty with clear blue skies but each of these mountain ranges were still snow covered. 

This wild horse management area encompasses over 390,000 acres and the number of horses varies depending on how long it has been since the last round-up but easily exceeds several thousand horses.  Because the area cannot sustain an unlimited number of horses the US government periodically rounds up the horses and offers them at adoption auctions. We have had several of these auctions in Meridian thru the years.

The horses are used to an occasional vehicle passing and as long as you don’t get out of your car they will usually just continue along giving you ample time to capture a few photos.  Today we were lucky to see about five different small herds.  There were a couple of young colts in several of the herds and in the last herd we saw a young filly that was probably born the day before.  The studs, as you can tell in the pictures, show the scars of their determination to continue their bloodlines.  We have seen wild horses that looked much worse but most of the horses in this area were in pretty good shape.  One particular herd had about six studs of varying ages and we were privileged to observe a few sparring fights that were dramatic to observe but no real damage was done. 

Paris, who has become a professional ground squirrel hunter spotted a squirrel which instantly made her day.  We were practically rolling on the ground laughing as she tried every possible contortion to dig into that squirrel’s burrow. Charles finally had to pull her out of the hole and with dirt covering her face and also a good bit in her mouth she looked at him as if to say “Dad, what’s the problem?”

We spent most of the morning on the mountain and ended the loop with a picnic overlooking the town of Green River, Wyoming.  It was a great morning!

From Green River we made the drive thru the Flaming Gorge Recreation Area and arrived in Vernal, Utah before 5:00 pm.  We found a room and are relaxing and enjoying the warmer temperatures in the low seventies after several days in the cold and snow. 

We are well tonight and hope that y’all are too.

Peace, Hope & Love,

Donna, Charles, Paris & Dodger



Tue, May 24, 2011

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

When we travel we don’t do a lot of planning we just let each day happen. Every day is a surprise.  – Donna Downey

When we woke up this morning in West Yellowstone it was raining.  It was tempting to just roll over and sleep the morning away but not really an option when you can’t wait to get into the park.  We did decide that the light would only get better so we took time to enjoy a leisurely breakfast at one of our favorite cafes.  The temperatures were only in the upper thirties so a good breakfast would be a good thing to carry us thru the cold day. 

As we entered the gates the ranger informed us that, due to the snow, another section of road was closed.  We had already mapped out our route and this closure did not affect that so we were off.  It’s hard not to get a little disheartened when it is cold and rainy and you know that the majority of the shots will have to come from the window of the Jeep.  But all of that disappears when you get the first opportunity to get a photograph.  

We spotted a pair of photographers set up along Riverside Drive trying to photograph a bald eagle.  They had on full rain gear and were both setup under the rear door of their SUVs.  It did not look like fun and we didn’t like the composition of the shot so we happily moved on.  We were very lucky to spot a Great Blue Heron.  They can be very shy, even in Yellowstone, and he was fairly close to the road but there were some thick trees between us.  This could be a good opportunity if he felt safe enough to stay put.  I quickly got ready and got a couple shots and then we moved up just a little closer and found a hole thru the trees that afforded us a better shot.  He seemed content to sit quietly on a piece of downed timber with the Madison River water flowing quickly over his feet.  We were not in a wayside of pullout  so just a few cars stopped momentarily to see what we were shooting and most didn’t even notice him and moved on.  So within thirty minutes of entering the park, my day was made.

As we drove further into the park the rain turned to a light snow and as the elevation climbed so did the snow.  We took the road across the middle of the park and it was covered completely.  On the Yellowstone River side of the park all the way out and into the Teton National Park the snow remained.  It looked and felt like winter instead of just a few weeks away from summer.  All four of us love the snow so we had a great day despite the limited opportunities for wildlife photography. 

There would be no view of the Teton Range today due to the low hanging clouds.  Paris and Dodger did have a thrill on one of their stops though.  We found a grassy area without snow or mud for them to go outside.  It also was an area full of ground squirrels!  Both Dodger and Paris found several of their den entrances and Paris did her best to dig her way in.  After taking a few shots of her enthusiasm we called her off before she could do any real damage.  I’m sure she would rate this as the best stop of the day.

In Jackson Hole we stopped for gas and got a recommendation for a Mexican Restaurant just a few blocks away.  The Wort Hotel is our usual stop for a great meal but we decided we should try something different this time.  It turned out to be really good and it also felt good to be inside a nice warm building after almost an entire day of in and out of the car in the cold.

After a quick trip to the grocery store to re-stock our picnic supplies we headed south toward our destination of Pinedale, Wyoming.  We have a nice room and since we ate lunch at almost 4:00 pm we are opting out of any supper tonight. 

We are very well tonight and hope that y’all are too.

Peace, Hope & Love,

Donna, Charles, Paris & Dodger



Mon, May 23, 2011

Monday, May 23, 2011

This was a relatively light photography day… some would consider that a tremendous blessing.  – Donna Downey

All four of us were tired yesterday so when we all piled up in the king sized bed last night and then cracked that sliding glass door so we could hear the Salmon River rushing by… well it was some kind of “happy” sleep for sure.  Our night by the river continued today as we again enjoyed a day of riverside driving.  We started out along the Salmon, moved to the North Fork of the Salmon, and then it was the Wise, then the Big Horn, the Beaverhead, the Madison, and the Firehole.   Being a premier fly fishing state, Montana has wonderful access points to their rivers so finding a clean restroom and a place to enjoy the river is no problem.

Our first stop this morning was at a lovely launch and access point on the Salmon River. The land to build this park was donated by a local ranching couple who were “up in years” but wanted to help others enjoy this amazing river.  Any land along the Salmon River is valuable and this was a very nice piece with easy accessibility to the river and in a very picturesque location. So this was a very generous gift and one we enjoyed during our brief time there. 

A good portion of our route today included sections of the Lewis & Clark Expedition Trail.  Near the top of the Big Hole pass we stopped to visit an Interpretive Exhibit on the Lewis & Clark Expedition and the Big Hole Valley.  This valley is historically significant and still looks much as it did when Lewis & Clark walked the area.  Clark described the area as an “extremely fertile valley” and it became the original heartland of Montana ranching.  According to the information on a clear day you can see 400 hundred square miles and as you stand atop this loftly perch it is an awesome view.  There were also a few nice patches of snow left so Paris & Dodger enjoyed the opportunity to “cool their heels” again.

We ate lunch in the small town of Ennis, Montana.  Ennis is a fly fishing haven and is located in the Madison River Valley.  I asked the waitress what she might recommend from the menu and she said the “pastie”(pronounced passtee).  It is a baked pastry filled with hamburger, onions, and potatoes and covered with brown gravy.  Supposedly the recipe first came to the area with the miners when their wives fixed these delicious pastry wrapped meals to put in their lunch bucket to provide them with a hearty meal.  It was great and very filling indeed.

From Ennis is was only about 70 miles to West Yellowstone where we got a room at our usual Best Western and headed into the park.  We didn’t have much time but grabbed a few shots and enjoyed the late afternoon light and the large groups of buffalo moving about the park.  In just our short drive we saw elk, buffalo, an eagle, a trumpeter swan, an osprey, geese and a great blue heron.  Just as we were leaving the park we caught up with a group of buffalo cows with their young calves… too cute!

We are well tonight and hope that y’all are too.

Peace, Hope & Love,

Donna, Charles, Paris & Dodger

Sun, May 22, 2011

Sunday, May 22, 2011

In writing my journal, particularly after a day full of unbelievable scenery, I am completely frustrated with my limited vocabulary and total lack of words to describe even poorly the beauty I have seen. – Donna Downey

Today was another day of rivers. Given the difficulty of the terrain in Idaho it makes perfect sense that almost all of the major roads follow a river.  Today we traveled beside a river all day long starting with the Payette and then moving to the Salmon.  On just a few occasions the road might move away from the river but it was only temporary and soon you were right back alongside.  And they are flowing mightily.  Tonight we are staying in Salmon, Idaho and our motel sits on the bank of the Salmon River.  From our balcony it is almost dizzying to watch the water flying past us.  But it will give us a wonderful background noise by which to induce some of that road trip “happy” sleep tonight.

Today was also another day of magnificent landscapes.  I simply run out of words to describe all of these views.  We were back in the snow again right before we got to the small town of Stanley, Idaho.  Stanley is known as the gateway to the Sawtooth Wilderness and there was still plenty of snow in the last pass we traversed before gliding downhill into town.  It’s a very small town and virtually has no one in it until summertime arrives and then it is booming with fly fishermen, campers, rafters, kayakers and generally anyone who enjoys the great outdoors.  But as is common in a lot of the high country May is known as “mud month” and so Stanley was very quiet today.

After lunch in Stanley we headed on toward our destination of Salmon, Idaho.  We had found a neat looking dirt road about ten miles east of Stanley to take if it was open.  There were several interesting sites in the first 12 miles of the road and although we doubted it wold be open after it climbed to go over a pass we had time to check it out.

It would first take us to the Ghost mining town of Bonanza, a gold mining town settled in 1876 about nine miles up the Yankee Fork of the Salmon river.   It reached its peak population of 600 in 1881 but had two major fires in 1889 and 1897 which destroyed most of the town and so the majority of folks moved up the road a few more miles to Custer.  Today there are just a few old log buildings remaining.

The next stop was less than a mile up the perfect dirt road to the Yankee Fork Gold Dredge.  From 1940 until 1952 this mining machine ate up the river spitting out rock and salvaging gold.  It ceased operations when the mining company ran out of mining claims.  It was the largest dredge ever to operate in Idaho.  The last owner donated the dredge to the Park Service.  Tours are available but don’t begin until Memorial Day so we had to settle for a walk around the exterior. 

Just above the dredge was the Ghost town of Custer. Custer was supported by two large mines and has a number of the old buildings remaining.  There is a lot of information available on the myriad of old equipment and buildings and a nice walking path throughout the small one-street town. 

Just outside Custer, however, our perfect dirt road began to climb and soon we were back in the snow and the road became impassable.  We promptly turned around and headed back to Custer to walk around and read more about the town before heading back to the main highway and continuing our trip to Salmon.

About twenty miles from Salmon we spotted a bald eagle sitting in a large cottonwood on the opposite bank of the river.  We stopped to admire him and he cooperated by waiting for us to drag out the big lens and we got a few shots.  For some reason we decided to keep the big lens and camera out and it was a good thing because just a few miles closer and we spotted an Osprey sitting on our side of the river in the top of a dead tree.  As we pulled up closer to grab a shot we realized he was holding a trout and had eaten a portion of it already.  He also allowed us to get fairly close and although he fussed a bit he did not leave.  It was a great ending to another great day on the road.

As I mentioned earlier we found a great room right on the river and are enjoying a gorgeous view with the sound of the river to lull us to sleep in a little while.

We are well tonight and hope that y’all are too.

Peace, Hope & Love,

Donna, Charles, Paris & Dodger